I think I left off in Korea around the time we started having fun.. Geoje Island is definitely somewhere I want to go back when I have a few weeks and it is spring or summer. I can just imagine the beautiful, California-like beaches abloom in the warm sunshine. As it was, we made do with the pale winter sun and perpetual greyness of most all of Korea that is such a stark contrast to Germany's constant greenness. This and Jeju island to the south are definitely already planned into my next Korean adventure.
Our return to Seoul was by bus and was definitely long but surprisingly hassle-free. I don't know why Americans are so resistant to traveling by bus other than the expense--30k WON or around 18 EUR/25 USD for a trip that would have been maybe 30-40 EUR by train at home. Not bad, but not something you want to do every weekend.
The return to Seoul meant the split up of our group, but that didn't actually last long as the next day I winded up visiting the exact same palace as the two other guys that came with me, in an odd twist of chance. Not tremendously surprising as we were visiting the most famous palace in Korea and there were only English tours 4 times a day. Our tour guide was extremely nice and, being the complete teacher's pet that I am, I ended up asking enough questions to provoke her to ask me where I was from and why I was in Korea. I was actually surprised to hear that she vaguely knew where Nashville was (I think Elvis was involved) and even more amused that she was surprised I was from the US--and Tennessee especially. She basically said she was surprised I was so attentive and interested in foreign culture as she thought of most people from the US (and presumably TN) as being insular and apathetic or even hostile to cultures outside their own. I was happy to be a representative for my half of America. And I think I was amused at her surprise that I didn't have an accent.
(also written a VERY long time ago.. forgive me!)
3.3.09
8.2.09
Koreanishes Andenken
My favorite souvenir from Korea has got to be the amazing gift from my friend Hai-Young's parents. It's called Yujacha and it's made from very finely sliced yuzu, a kind of citrus like a tangerine, that has been mixed with sugar to make a syrup. You use about a spoonful and just add boiling water for a very refreshing hot drink that has a lot of citrus perk and, in theory, helps with colds and recovering from winter sickness.The fruit is grown on Geoje Island and further south on Jeju Island which has an even milder climate perfect for citrus.
I've really enjoyed drinking this in addition to hot chocolate and my many varieties of tea that I've collected over the year. It's nice to have a glass of something hot before you step out in the cold, bitter, German winter. And I'm sure the Koreans enjoy it too because their winter is equally nasty.
Speaking of which, it's turning cold again and it is supposed to be snowing next week. This week was a nice break from sub-zero temperatures, but I think I'll be enjoying the hot drinks for a long time to come..
(ok, i wrote this a reeeally long time ago...)
I've really enjoyed drinking this in addition to hot chocolate and my many varieties of tea that I've collected over the year. It's nice to have a glass of something hot before you step out in the cold, bitter, German winter. And I'm sure the Koreans enjoy it too because their winter is equally nasty.
Speaking of which, it's turning cold again and it is supposed to be snowing next week. This week was a nice break from sub-zero temperatures, but I think I'll be enjoying the hot drinks for a long time to come..
(ok, i wrote this a reeeally long time ago...)
23.1.09
Korea entdeckt
I have been, for the past few days, discovering beautiful, chaotic South Korea. It's gotten way to cold here today to spend too much time outside (although I did explore the Namdaemun (남대문) market which right next to the gate which burned down last year --it's still being repaired). I'll try to put lots of observations here, but no promises :P. And pictures are here:
My original purpose for coming to Korea was in fact the wedding of two friends from the Institute. The wedding was last Saturday and was wonderful from a personal but also cultural level. The beginning was a traditional western wedding including white dress, rings, and cake--and even some very European food. However, after the friends left and the bride's family dispersed, the groom's family (and luckily us too) went back to the grandparents' home in Seoul for a traditional Korean ceremony. The groom's family is rather traditional (especially the grandfather), so it was 1. unusual to have a traditional ceremony, 2. very surprising for us to be able to see this ceremony as foreigners and therefore 3. probably a once in a lifetime experience (and I am so thankful, because I know there were a lot of people closer to the newlyweds who weren't able/allowed to see this ceremony.
There were a number of traditional gifts from/to the family including (here) fruit, nuts, dried meat, rice cakes, and tons of other interesting things:
(The three of us from the Institute with the newlyweds in their traditional garb.) The backdrop here was amazing and has significant numbers of animals and plants that represent health and longevity. The rest of the ceremony was very neat too, with lots of ceremony and deference payed to the elders of the family.
After a relaxing stay in the Shilla hotel--one of the best in Seoul--we spend the day around Seoul (eating!) and then headed out to Geoje Island to the hometown of the bride. The hotel we stayed in that night was also amazingly well furnished and, after a late night of karaoke in the town, a morning trip to the basement sauna and a big traditional Korean breakfast were in order. Then we had a wonderful tour of the island and another big meal (way too much to eat, in fact) including some interesting things: raw fish (what I think was sole), sea snails, raw oysters and mussels, conch, and lettuce, seaweed, and pickled cabbage for making wraps. And of couse, all meals are accompanied by gimchi (often spelled kimchi, but pronounced with a g!), rice, and fun spicy/garlicy things to add flavor:
After our intense eating experience, we had a nice surprise trip out on a fishing boat owned by the restaurant owners. The people here are amazingly nice, did I mention that? I have some movies that are better than the pictures.
I'm breaking. Back with part two soon!
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| Seoul and Geojedo, South Korea |
My original purpose for coming to Korea was in fact the wedding of two friends from the Institute. The wedding was last Saturday and was wonderful from a personal but also cultural level. The beginning was a traditional western wedding including white dress, rings, and cake--and even some very European food. However, after the friends left and the bride's family dispersed, the groom's family (and luckily us too) went back to the grandparents' home in Seoul for a traditional Korean ceremony. The groom's family is rather traditional (especially the grandfather), so it was 1. unusual to have a traditional ceremony, 2. very surprising for us to be able to see this ceremony as foreigners and therefore 3. probably a once in a lifetime experience (and I am so thankful, because I know there were a lot of people closer to the newlyweds who weren't able/allowed to see this ceremony.
There were a number of traditional gifts from/to the family including (here) fruit, nuts, dried meat, rice cakes, and tons of other interesting things:
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| From Seoul and Geojedo, South Korea |
After a relaxing stay in the Shilla hotel--one of the best in Seoul--we spend the day around Seoul (eating!) and then headed out to Geoje Island to the hometown of the bride. The hotel we stayed in that night was also amazingly well furnished and, after a late night of karaoke in the town, a morning trip to the basement sauna and a big traditional Korean breakfast were in order. Then we had a wonderful tour of the island and another big meal (way too much to eat, in fact) including some interesting things: raw fish (what I think was sole), sea snails, raw oysters and mussels, conch, and lettuce, seaweed, and pickled cabbage for making wraps. And of couse, all meals are accompanied by gimchi (often spelled kimchi, but pronounced with a g!), rice, and fun spicy/garlicy things to add flavor:
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| From Seoul and Geojedo, South Korea |
I'm breaking. Back with part two soon!
22.1.09
Reise in Korea
I'm doing fine here, but I don't really feel like writing anything right now--there is just too much to say. Instead, take a look at the pictures I've uploaded and maybe I'll get to writing about this amazing trip sometime soon!
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| Seoul and Geojedo, South Korea |
16.1.09
13.1.09
Abfahrt kommt bald
Eek! I'm leaving for Korea in less than 2 days!
I'm pretty excited, but also a little freaked out as I don't know exactly where I'll be staying the first night. Or what I'm getting the couple whose wedding I'm going to. Or how I'm going to survive in a country where I don't know the language. Lots of other 'ors' too.
Fortunately I talked to a collegue here from Korea who told me not to worry about learning Korean--apparently I shouldn't even try to speak it lest I want to be laughed at. And most of Seoul should have English around. Also, I am apparently not allowed to talk at all about Japan! There is still a lot of tension between Korea and Japan because of some of the atrocities of the second World War and the fact that Japan never apologized. Apparently even small comments about Japan can really get you in trouble--like beaten-up trouble. And China isn't really a good topic either. Apparently Koreans are a bit defensive about Chinese claims to some of their traditions. So yes, I will be on the defensive :P.
But I'm excited!
I'm pretty excited, but also a little freaked out as I don't know exactly where I'll be staying the first night. Or what I'm getting the couple whose wedding I'm going to. Or how I'm going to survive in a country where I don't know the language. Lots of other 'ors' too.
Fortunately I talked to a collegue here from Korea who told me not to worry about learning Korean--apparently I shouldn't even try to speak it lest I want to be laughed at. And most of Seoul should have English around. Also, I am apparently not allowed to talk at all about Japan! There is still a lot of tension between Korea and Japan because of some of the atrocities of the second World War and the fact that Japan never apologized. Apparently even small comments about Japan can really get you in trouble--like beaten-up trouble. And China isn't really a good topic either. Apparently Koreans are a bit defensive about Chinese claims to some of their traditions. So yes, I will be on the defensive :P.
But I'm excited!
9.1.09
Eine kleine Post
Just a quick post from mid December:
I took this on the most amazing day--probably the last day of autumn. It was cool enough to warrant gloves, but not so cold as to prevent comforatble biking. I found this little hill in Bovenden, about 5 km to the north of Göttingen. It was totally surrounded by brush, but a steep little path led up to the top where there were a couple of graves, trees, and a bench. With the sun shining, the wind blowing, and countryside around me, it was the perfect way to end fall and get ready for the long, cold winter that is now upon us. I've decided that when March comes around I'm coming back here to enjoy the first day of Spring.
I took this on the most amazing day--probably the last day of autumn. It was cool enough to warrant gloves, but not so cold as to prevent comforatble biking. I found this little hill in Bovenden, about 5 km to the north of Göttingen. It was totally surrounded by brush, but a steep little path led up to the top where there were a couple of graves, trees, and a bench. With the sun shining, the wind blowing, and countryside around me, it was the perfect way to end fall and get ready for the long, cold winter that is now upon us. I've decided that when March comes around I'm coming back here to enjoy the first day of Spring.
5.1.09
Keine Zeit!
I have no time today for a real post because!!! Stephanie is arriving tomorrow and I have to get my things together and make sure there are actually things to eat and somewhere to sleep and so on. I'm so excited to have a visitor (when mom was here, it didn't really count because I was incapacitated)! I should probably do laundry too... sigh. Maybe I'll postpone shopping. That is always more fun with two (or an entire apartmentful, as I well know..)!
4.1.09
Der Kiessee, fest zugefriert
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| From Deutschland Panoramas |
Something to enjoy incase I don't get to posting something tomorrow. First day back at work is bound to be exciting! Plus I have nitrogen filling and a seminar to attend! Eek!
French Kitchen Ground Rules
Also something I noticed while in France--and maybe this is just a side effect of having tradition of eating two hot meals per day instead of just lunch or maybe it's just my being not used to traditional family life in Germany/USA--: it feels like French society is much less 'progressive' with respect to semi-equal division of household labor between men and women. Almost all of the cooking was done by women in both houses I was in as well as most of the washing up, cleaning, and laundry. Not that this isn't the norm in Germany or the US, but it was kind of like a glass of cold water after living for 4+ (really 10+) years in places with relatively equal division of labor (where there is labor to be done).
There were definitely some moments in Hélène's kitchen while we were getting dinner ready or when I was taking back dishes when I felt completely out of place--not just in terms of me being a visitor, but also in terms of me being young and male. I'm going to let them think what they want, but maybe they'll just chalk it up to me being American and our strange, cultureless way of doing things. In any case, I feel like when we were with the German family earlier this year, I didn't have the same feeling of being so completely out of my normal setting.
Makes me wonder about the family of the future (mine and in general) and how all this will be negotiated. Probably more fairly than what I saw in France. I know I for one am not going to be doing both the cooking and the washing :P.
There were definitely some moments in Hélène's kitchen while we were getting dinner ready or when I was taking back dishes when I felt completely out of place--not just in terms of me being a visitor, but also in terms of me being young and male. I'm going to let them think what they want, but maybe they'll just chalk it up to me being American and our strange, cultureless way of doing things. In any case, I feel like when we were with the German family earlier this year, I didn't have the same feeling of being so completely out of my normal setting.
Makes me wonder about the family of the future (mine and in general) and how all this will be negotiated. Probably more fairly than what I saw in France. I know I for one am not going to be doing both the cooking and the washing :P.
French vs German Food
A brief reflection on my time in France and my subsequent return here:
With respect to food--my personal favorite topic ever--I'd say the French definitely have something on the Germans. Whereas German food is heavy on pork, potatoes, and brassicates and tends to be a little bland, French food is light--lots of salad (every main meal really), a preference for poultry and sea food, still bland with regard to veggies. According to the french, there is a preference for the front half of the cow in France, and the rear in Germany (I think, might be the other way around). Overall, I think the point is that France is a little more delicate and prefers the nicer cuts, whereas Germany is basically used to importing the lesser bits that people in France don't want. Which basically goes with the general theme of Germany-France relations.
On bread: French bread, much like Italian, is much lighter and fluffier than German bread. It's funny, because the baguettes here in Germany are distinctly German: dense, without the air pockets. German bread is dense. It's like biting into a brick of grain really. I think this might explain why Germans eat bread for two meals a day (the French seem appalled at the idea). Also, the germans seem to have a lot more variety in their bread choices. Both loaves and Brötchen (rolls) are amazingly diverse in terms of different Getreide (grains) and creative additions (sunflower, poppy, pumpkin etc seeds).
With respect to food--my personal favorite topic ever--I'd say the French definitely have something on the Germans. Whereas German food is heavy on pork, potatoes, and brassicates and tends to be a little bland, French food is light--lots of salad (every main meal really), a preference for poultry and sea food, still bland with regard to veggies. According to the french, there is a preference for the front half of the cow in France, and the rear in Germany (I think, might be the other way around). Overall, I think the point is that France is a little more delicate and prefers the nicer cuts, whereas Germany is basically used to importing the lesser bits that people in France don't want. Which basically goes with the general theme of Germany-France relations.
On bread: French bread, much like Italian, is much lighter and fluffier than German bread. It's funny, because the baguettes here in Germany are distinctly German: dense, without the air pockets. German bread is dense. It's like biting into a brick of grain really. I think this might explain why Germans eat bread for two meals a day (the French seem appalled at the idea). Also, the germans seem to have a lot more variety in their bread choices. Both loaves and Brötchen (rolls) are amazingly diverse in terms of different Getreide (grains) and creative additions (sunflower, poppy, pumpkin etc seeds).
3.1.09
La semaine du fromage
A quick break for some French... I really enjoyed my whirlwind tour of Paris, if only for the amazing sandwiches I messily devoured on the street:
This particular specimen was bleu d'Auvergne, jambon, raisins, nuts, and something else tasty. It was just what I needed after walking from one side of the Seine to the other and looping around to see the two main islands (which are amazing!). Unfortunately I almost lost my teeth on the bread.. Good French bread is apparently supposed to give you a major jaw workout when not eaten in small chunks. I also got a lovely little chocolate torte, but failed to restrain myself for a photo.. Just use your imagination. (Incidentally, the place I got the sandwich was called Legay and I'm fairly sure it was smack-dab in the middle of the Paris gay quarter. I was amused.)
I also had a lovely tour de fromage chez Hélène and chez Marie. The French, of course, keep cheese at arm's reach for every meal, and, with the exception of my sick day, I tried to get in as much cheese-time as I could. I had the most amazing goat's milk cheese, and when I got back to Germany, I tried to find it immediately. This is the specimen in question:
It is so nice and creamy! The outer layer is smooth like brie, but the inner section is a little drier and crumbly like fresh goat cheese (which is what it is, just the outside has ripened a bit). The goat taste is mellow and complex and hides the moldy taste of brie that I am a little wary of. I didn't have a baguette, but it went pretty well with some leftover fladenbrot. This one is definitely becoming a staple in my box of cheeses!
(Incidentally, I didn't have the heart to tell Marie and Bernard that German baguettes are only slightly less-wonderful than French ones. And the croissants are about the same :P. I think they might have turned me out early if I had dropped that one... Now the challenge is to find ANYWHERE in the US that has good baguettes. Maybe it won't be such a challenge in Boston, but I'm betting there won't be a bakery on the corner.)
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| From Fromage and Würstchen etc |
This particular specimen was bleu d'Auvergne, jambon, raisins, nuts, and something else tasty. It was just what I needed after walking from one side of the Seine to the other and looping around to see the two main islands (which are amazing!). Unfortunately I almost lost my teeth on the bread.. Good French bread is apparently supposed to give you a major jaw workout when not eaten in small chunks. I also got a lovely little chocolate torte, but failed to restrain myself for a photo.. Just use your imagination. (Incidentally, the place I got the sandwich was called Legay and I'm fairly sure it was smack-dab in the middle of the Paris gay quarter. I was amused.)
I also had a lovely tour de fromage chez Hélène and chez Marie. The French, of course, keep cheese at arm's reach for every meal, and, with the exception of my sick day, I tried to get in as much cheese-time as I could. I had the most amazing goat's milk cheese, and when I got back to Germany, I tried to find it immediately. This is the specimen in question:
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| From Fromage and Würstchen etc |
It is so nice and creamy! The outer layer is smooth like brie, but the inner section is a little drier and crumbly like fresh goat cheese (which is what it is, just the outside has ripened a bit). The goat taste is mellow and complex and hides the moldy taste of brie that I am a little wary of. I didn't have a baguette, but it went pretty well with some leftover fladenbrot. This one is definitely becoming a staple in my box of cheeses!
(Incidentally, I didn't have the heart to tell Marie and Bernard that German baguettes are only slightly less-wonderful than French ones. And the croissants are about the same :P. I think they might have turned me out early if I had dropped that one... Now the challenge is to find ANYWHERE in the US that has good baguettes. Maybe it won't be such a challenge in Boston, but I'm betting there won't be a bakery on the corner.)
Ein neues Jahr, neuer Erfährungen
(OK, I've decided I'm going to really try to keep this up now with at least one post per day on various subjects! I think I can do it, but it's going to take some willpower. Fortunately, it's winter, so I don't have too many other options.
I'm not even going to try to make up for the past several months of sloth; it would just make me overwhelmed. But if I have some time, maybe I can incorporate things as I go.)
Firstly, Happy New Year! As you can see from above, it's snowy and beautiful here now that winter has arrived in full (compare with previous photo from late summer). When I left for France before Christmas, it was still above freezing and grey and unpleasant, but now the entire valley has turned into a winter-wonderland: snow on all the fields, streams and ponds covered in ice thick enough to walk on (see below), clear skies at night, and it hasn't been above freezing in a week (and probably won't be for a month or so!). This is definitely a different Germany than the one I left two weeks ago.
The ice here isn't quite thick enough for complete safety, but there have already been people skating on the Kiessee, and I think it'll be ready before I leave for Korea. As you can see, I've been adventuring already...
And yes, I am wearing the violent yellow jacket.
I'm not even going to try to make up for the past several months of sloth; it would just make me overwhelmed. But if I have some time, maybe I can incorporate things as I go.)
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| From Deutschland Panoramas |
Firstly, Happy New Year! As you can see from above, it's snowy and beautiful here now that winter has arrived in full (compare with previous photo from late summer). When I left for France before Christmas, it was still above freezing and grey and unpleasant, but now the entire valley has turned into a winter-wonderland: snow on all the fields, streams and ponds covered in ice thick enough to walk on (see below), clear skies at night, and it hasn't been above freezing in a week (and probably won't be for a month or so!). This is definitely a different Germany than the one I left two weeks ago.
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| From Januar im Deutschland |
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| From Januar im Deutschland |
The ice here isn't quite thick enough for complete safety, but there have already been people skating on the Kiessee, and I think it'll be ready before I leave for Korea. As you can see, I've been adventuring already...
And yes, I am wearing the violent yellow jacket.
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